To get to the Vatican Museums, the first destination of the itinerary, you will have to exit from the external gate of the Casetta delle Fiabe and go right. Walk a few minutes until you reach the Olgiata metropolitan train station, line FL3 (consult the timetable map here or search directly on the trenitalia.com website, entering "Olgiata" as the departure station and "Valle Aurelia" as the departure station I arrive). Once you have taken the train you will have to get off at the Valle Aurelia station and take bus 495 to the Emo/Di Bartolo stop. After 3 stops, get off at the Emo stop and walk about 400 meters to the Vatican Museums.
In case you have already visited the Vatican museums or plan to do so another day, you can go directly to the next place of interest, the B. National Galleries of Ancient Art - Corsini Gallery. With the metropolitan train do not get off at Valle Aurelia station, but Roma Trastevere. At the station exit, take tram or bus 8 towards Piazza Venezia and get off after 6 stops at Piazza Gioacchino Belli. Follow the Tiber river on the left for 800 meters, through Via di Santa Dorotea to Via della Lungara 10, home to the Orsini Gallery.
Rome and Caravaggio
Luoghi principali dell'itinerario
A. Vatican Museums
B. National Galleries of Ancient Art - Corsini Gallery
C. Basilica of Sant’Agostino
D. San Luigi dei Francesi Church
E. Capitoline Museums
F. Gallery Doria Pamphilj
G. National Galleries of Ancient Art - Palazzo Barberini
H. Borghese Gallery
I. Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo
You can follow it here with Google Maps
A. Vatican Museums
The Vatican Museums they preserve a single work by Caravaggio, but an extremely significant one: the "Deposition of Christ" (1602-4). This was one of the few to immediately receive unanimous approval, probably thanks to the classical approach that Caravaggio wanted to give it.
The group of figures is positioned above the tomb slab which, with its protruding edge, gives three-dimensionality to the entire scene.
All the characters are depicted with extreme naturalism, typical of the Lombard manner: the body of Christ is livid, the face of Nicodemus wrinkled, those of the pious women distorted by pain.
B. National Galleries of Ancient Art - Corsini Gallery
In the Gallery you can admire a further version of the “S. John the Baptist“: the Saint emerges from the darkness with the whiteness of his body, wrapped in a purple cloak; the face is hidden by the foreshortened pose adopted.
C. Basilica of Sant’Agostino
At the end of Corso Rinascimento, on the Piazza delle Cinque Lune side, is the Sant’Agostino Church:
here, the “Madonna dei Pellegrini” (1604-6) is preserved in the first chapel on the left, right near the entrance.
The curiosity of this painting is given by the face of the Madonna which is "borrowed" from Lena Antognetti, a famous courtesan of the time.
At the feet of the Madonna we find the two wayfarers who, in an attempt to absolutely adhere to the truth, are represented dirty and with half-naked legs in the foreground.
D. San Luigi dei Francesi Churc
The San Luigi dei Francesi Churc it is not far from Piazza Navona, near Corso Rinascimento.
Once you enter, walk along the entire left nave and, right at the end, in the Contarelli Chapel, three wonders will open up before your eyes:
- the “Vocazione di San Matteo”;
- the “Martirio di San Matteo”;
- and “S. Matteo e l’Angelo”.
Caravaggio managed to obtain this commission in his early twenties, following a refusal to continue the decoration by the Cavalier d'Arpino, in whose workshop the artist had "applied himself to painting flowers and fruit". Caravaggio first created the side canvases (1599-1600).
In the Vocation (the canvas on the left), the moment of the "calling" of St. Matthew by Christ is represented: the artist places the scene in his time, as we see the tax collectors dressed in the fashion of the seventeenth century.
What makes the scene suggestive is the beam of light coming from above which, almost touching Christ's hand, comes to illuminate the recipient of that "pointed index finger":
in fact, it is not a question of naturalistic light but of "divine" light. In the Martyrdom (the central canvas) the composition hinges on the figure of the executioner, who prepares for the final thrust on the Saint, lying at his feet, while an angel rushes to offer the palm of martyrdom. Finally, as regards the central canvas, the St. Matthew and the Angel (the canvas on the right), what we see today is the second version that Caravaggio represented:
the first version was in fact rejected, as it showed the Saint as being illiterate, "with his feet roughly exposed to the people", and the Angel guiding his hand as he was almost incapable of writing.
This second version is instead more composed, although the contrast between the figure of Saint Matthew, "human too human", and that of the angel, created according to Mannerist canons, is maintained.
E. Capitoline Museums
The themes of both paintings present in the Pinacoteca Capitolina, the “Buona Ventura” (1593-4) and the “S. John the Baptist” (1602), were addressed several times by Caravaggio.
Of the first work, the game of glances that the artist creates between the two figures is interesting: it is a gypsy who, while pretending to read the palm of a naive young man from the wealthy class, with a cunning gesture takes the ring from his hand finger.
The second work, as already mentioned, is a practically identical copy of the one preserved in the Doria Pamphilj Gallery.
F. Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Moving from Piazza del Popolo towards Piazza Venezia, almost at the end of Via del Corso you will come across the Doria Pamphilj Gallery on the right, where you can make a nice trio as the Gallery hosts 3 works by Caravaggio:
- the “Maddalena Penitente” (1595 ca.),
- the “Riposo durante la Fuga in Egitto” (1595 ca.)
- and one of two identical versions of the “S. Giovanni Battista” (1602).
In the first work, the religious theme is represented in a domestic key, with the contrite Magdalene at the center of an empty space, who has just abandoned a necklace of pearls and jewels on the ground, as a sign of her abandonment of worldly life.
The second work represents a true masterpiece of his youthful phase: the space is in fact organized in a completely original way, with the two groups of figures (St. Joseph on one side and the Virgin and Child on the other) connected through the central figure of the Angel, represented from behind; the latter plays the notes of the Song of Songs on the violin, the score of which is held open by Giuseppe.
G. National Galleries of Ancient Art - Palazzo Barberini
Once you walk through the doors of Palazzo Barberini, you will be able to admire a work that was widely taken as a model by subsequent "Caravaggeschi", first of all Artemisia Gentileschi: we are talking about "Judith and Holofernes" (1599).
The painting is able to convey the "motions of the soul" that move the characters represented: Holofernes shows a grimace of extreme pain and the body is contracted by the tension caused by it. Judith instead seems to fulfill her task with disdain and reluctance; her youthful beauty is counterbalanced by the wrinkled face of the handmaid, who also emotionally participates in the barbaric event.
Also in Palazzo Barberini we find one of Caravaggio's most evocative works: a “Narcissus” (1599) which, reflecting itself on a surface of water, captures its reflected image. A curiosity is given by the format of the canvas that creates an almost perfectly double representation.
H. Borghese Gallery
The Borghese Gallery collects the largest group of Caravaggio's works in Rome. Among the painter's early works, the "Boy with a Basket of Fruit" and the "Sick Bacchino" (1593-4) are simply magnificent. In the first work, the attention to detail is striking, in depicting the "still life" that the young man holds in his hand (see for example the bloody crack of the ripe fig or the rendering of the leaves, sometimes yellowed and sometimes pitted).
Del Bacchino Malato is said to be a self-portrait of Caravaggio, who decided to portray himself during a period of illness. Among Caravaggio's works from his more mature period, here you can admire in particular the "Madonna dei Palafrenieri" (1605-6) and "David with the Head of Goliath" (1609-10).
In the Madonna dei Palafrenieri, we recognize once again Lena Antognetti in the face of the Madonna; In David with the Head of Goliath, we instead wanted to identify once again the same artist in the features of Goliath, confirming a reading of the same in a psychoanalytic key (we are in the years of the artist's death sentence, who nevertheless fled ).
Fanciullo con Canestra di frutta
Bacchino Malato
Madonna dei Palafrenieri
Davide con la Testa di Golia
San Girolamo Scrivente
I. Santa Maria del Popolo Basilic
Santa Maria del Popolo Basilic it is easily found, as it is located right on Piazza del Popolo, near the Gate that opens onto the Aurelian Walls. The Cerasi Chapel opens onto the transept, and here the works of Caravaggio are exhibited:
- “Conversione di S. Paolo” (1660-1),
- and “Crocifissione di S. Pietro” (1600-1).
In the first, St. Paul is represented lying on the ground, in a foreshortened position, at the feet of the horse, as he fell when he was struck by the "very strong light of revelation": the divine event is totally "internalized", once again thanks to the use of a symbolic light.
At this point, to return to the Fairy Tale House, you will have to cross the walls from Piazza del Popolo the Porta del Popolo and, in Piazzale Flaminio, take the metro line A towards Battistini, to get off at Valle Aurelia, an exchange point with the metropolitan train (sea here the timetable or search directly on the website trenitalia.com, inserting "Valle Aurelia" as the departure station and "Olgiata" as the arrival station). Take the metropolitan train towards Cesano-Viterbo and get off at Olgiata station. A few minutes walk and you will be back at your accommodation. All this with a single ticket.