Underground Rome: change your perspective
Every city in the world holds a hidden treasure in its depths, beneath the surface.
Rome retains many of its buried treasures, proof of the magnificence exposed to the light of the sun. But this other "side of the Moon" is unfortunately largely unknown not only to tourists, but also to its own inhabitants who trample its streets every day without wondering what lies beneath them.

Luoghi principali dell'itinerario
A. Mausoleum of Santa Costanza and the Catacombs of Sant'Agnese
B. The bunkers of Mussolini and the Savoia
C. Hypogeum of Via Livenza
D. Crypt of the Capuchin friars
E. Roman domus of Palazzo Valentini
F. Mecenate Auditorium
G. Domus Aurea
H. Mithraeum and early Christian church of San Clemente
I. Columbarium of Pomponius Hylas
L. Underground of Santa Cecilia
M. Catacombs of San Callisto
You can follow it here with Google Maps
A. Mausoleum of Santa Costanza and the Catacombs of Sant'Agnese
The Mausoleum of Santa Costanza and the Catacombs of Sant'Agnese are located on Via Nomentana. The complex is represented by catacombs, developed between the 3rd and 4th centuries AD, which are divided into various regions arranged on three floors; they take their name from the martyr Agnes, laid here between the mid-3rd and the beginning of the 4th century.
A small single-nave basilica was built in the 4th century on the first floor of the cemetery, where the saint was buried. The area also contains the remains of a large basilica with three naves, built by Constantine or his daughter Constance between 337 and 350 AD. On one of the sides of the basilica, the mausoleum of Constance, who died in 354, was built around the middle of the 4th century. It is one of the most important monuments of late ancient architecture. It is in fact the first example of a centrally planned building with an ambulatory (passage corridor).
It was originally surrounded by a portico, which has now disappeared; the entrance is preceded by a narthex with two apses on the sides; the interior consists of a ring corridor covered by a barrel vault and a central room covered by a dome, delimited by twelve pairs of granite columns. On the walls there are rectangular and semicircular niches; in the back niche was the sarcophagus of Costanza in red porphyry, now preserved in the Vatican Museums and replaced here by a copy. Beautiful mosaics dating back to the 4th century with fruit, flowers, animals and harvest scenes are found on the vault of the corridor.
Other mosaics are found in the niches, with the representation of the delivery of the keys to St. Peter and the delivery of the law to St. Peter and St. Paul; Constance and her husband Annibaliano are depicted on the sides of the entrance. In the 7th century, another basilica was built on the tomb of St. Agnes by Pope Honorius, with three naves and an apse facing Via Nomentana. It is an example of a Christian basilica of Byzantine influence, as evidenced by the mosaic in the apse, a magnificent example of Byzantine mosaic in Rome dating back to the first half of the 7th century, with the figure of St. Agnes frai popes Symmachus (498-514) and Honorius (625-638), who holds the model of the church in his hand.


B. The bunkers of Mussolini and the Savoia
This place is not shown on the map, but if it is of interest it is a few minutes from the catacombs of Sant'Agnese. To shorten it, take bus 82 towards the center and get off after 3 stops at Nomentana/Villa Torlonia.
Among the most fascinating places of underground Rome, a special place is certainly occupied by Mussolini's bunkers and the very last one of the Savoy family which has just finished being restored. Let's start with Mussolini's bunkers, in particular the last one which was discovered in 2010, during cleaning works in Palazzetto San Marco, a wing of Palazzo Venezia; therefore, the 9 rooms hidden by a wooden trapdoor, approx. 20 meters deep, probably left unfinished following the capture of the Duce.
With this, the anti-aircraft shelters that Mussolini had built during the war rise to 3: the others are under Villa Torlonia and under the Palazzo degli Uffici in Eur.
- If the one under Palazzo Venezia cannot yet be visited, for the other two the addresses are as follows: Piazzale Konrad Adenauer 8 for the EUR one (open for specific events and guided tours),
- Via Nomentana 70 for Villa Torlonia (access only by reservation with guided tour; €7), here you will find the official website with all the information to book your visit. This place of interest does not appear on the map, but is located near the Mausoleum of Santa Costanza.
Finally, the last Savoy bunker, recently finished restoring, is also worth a visit. The bunker was probably built between 1940 and 1942, and is located in the heart of Villa Ada. The only way to visit it is to book a guided tour via the website www.bunkervillaada.it. From this summer, however, the bunker will host art exhibitions and historical re-enactment theater shows.
It certainly deserves its own in-depth study Villa Torlonia: park with a complex of buildings, located in the Nomentano district of Rome. Formerly owned by the Torlonia family, it was Mussolini's residence and has been a public park since 1978. Its historic buildings house the museums of Villa Torlonia.
At this point you can return to the route, reaching Via Livenza 4 (about 1.8 km). You can get there (follow here).
Along the way you will also come across the Museum of Contemporary Art of Rome: the Macro

Bunker di Mussolini

Villa Torlonia

C. Hypogeum of Via Livenza
Hypogeum of Via Livenza is an important testimony to the history of art of the 4th century. in Rome, although its function at the time has not yet been definitively identified. It was probably a nymphaeum, considering the scenes depicted in the frescoes of rare value. It can be accessed from Via Livenza 4, but entry is subject to accompaniment by a cultural association (€4).
Entry permitted only to accompanied groups
Max 10 people per visit.
Reservation required tel. 06 06 08

D. Crypt of the Capuchin friars
It is a rather unusual place, for some macabre, as it is adorned with the bones of around 4,000 Capuchin friars. The writing that marks the beginning of the visit is eloquent:
“We were what you are, and what we are you will be.”
OPENING HOURS: every day from 9.00 to 19.00 (the ticket office closes 30 minutes before)
HOLIDAYS: Easter Day closed – 2 November closed at 3pm – 24 December closed at 2.30pm – 25 December closed – 31 December closed at 2.30pm – 1 January closed
It is open every day, in Via Vittorio Veneto 27.

E. Domus romane of palazzo Valentini
In Palazzo Valentini you can see these extraordinary domus most likely belonged to Senators in the imperial age. Thanks to laser reconstructions and suggestive plays of light, it will be possible to see the halls, kitchens, peristyles and spa facilities of the time reborn before your eyes.
They are located in Via VI Novembre 119 A (€12).
They are open every day, but booking is advisable.

F. Mecenate Auditorium
Mecenate Auditorium is a beautiful entertainment venue, dating back to the 1st century. BC, most likely annexed to a residential complex. Its pictorial decoration from the 1st century. d. C. is nothing short of astonishing, with Dionysian scenes and miniaturistic gardens. From the outside it looks like an anonymous building located on Largo Leopardi, at the intersection with Via Merulana, to the point of not giving any indication of the magnificence hidden inside. Place not to be missed
Information and reservations:
Entry permitted only to accompanied groups.
Max 30 people per visit.
Reservation required tel. 060608

G. Domus Aurea
The Domus Aurea with an area extending from the Palatine to the Oppian Hill, it was by far the most sumptuous of the imperial residences built by Nero. Inside it was originally an artificial lake, gardens and a forest. Furthermore, it owed its name to the fact that all the vaults were decorated with gold and other precious stones.
Finally, between the two courtyards there was an octagonal room that rotated incessantly, both day and night.
It is currently presented as a construction site under restoration; for this reason it can only be visited on weekends and from the end of October to the beginning of March: in fact, the rest of the week and the year work continues there.
It is accessed from Via della Domus Aurea 1.

H. Mithraeum and early Christian church of San Clemente
About 20 meters deep below the Basilica of San Clemente, there are: the ancient early Christian Basilica, which houses a Roman Mithraeum from the 2nd century. AD, characterized by stone benches on which the initiates were welcomed and by a niche with the depiction of the god killing a bull. Here you will find one of the most unique curiosities of Vulgar Latin, the first "bad word" written on a wall in the world:
«Fili de le pute, traite, Gosmari, Albertel, traite. Fail your backside with the pole, Carvoncelle!»
translation: Sons of bitches, pull! Gosmario, Albertello, shoot! Carvoncello, push from behind with the pole"
To visit the rooms, go to Via Labicana 45: the Basilica is open every day

I. Columbarium of Pomponius Hylas
On the tour of underground Rome you certainly cannot miss a visit to the columbarium of Pomponio Hylas, a sepulchral monument, characterized by walls "perforated" by niches, inside which the ashes of the deceased were placed. Its name derives precisely from this aspect of the environment, similar to a dovecote.
Entry is permitted only to accompanied groups, from Tuesday to Sunday, in Via di Porta Latina.

L. Underground of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere
The basilica of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere is open every day 10.00-13.00 / 16.00-19.00
Visit to the crypt and excavations: every day 10.00-13.00 / 16.00-19.00
Medieval frescoes by Pietro Cavallini: every weekday 10.00-12.30
Mass times Weekdays: 7.15am
Holidays: 10.00 am
During the celebration of Holy Mass it is not possible to visit the church Basilica: free entry
Visit to the excavations: €2.50
Visit frescoes by Pietro Cavallini: €2.50
During the celebration of Holy Mass it is not possible to visit the church

You are tired, the day is coming to an end!!!
M. Catacombs of San Callisto
If you still have time and energy you can go to Catacombe di San Callisto. Walk to Piazza di Santa Cecilia and turn into Via dei Vascellari. Follow it all the way until you reach the Tiber river and cross it via the Palatine bridge. Continue along the Tiber on the left and go down on the right onto Via Petroselli. Take bus 118 towards Appia/Villa Dei Quintili and get off after 16 stops at Catacombe S.Callisto.
They are the oldest and best preserved catacombs on the Appian Way. Along its tunnels there are particularly evocative openings: the Crypt of Santa Cecilia, on whose walls paintings from the 5th-6th century are preserved. (e.g. image of Saint Cecilia in a prayerful attitude); and the Crypt of the Popes, also called the "Small Vatican", as around ten popes were buried there.
The entrance is in Via Appia Antica 110/126 and they are open every day, except Wednesdays, from 9.00 to 12.00 and from 14.00 to 17.00 (€8).
Entrance ticket costs Full price: €8.00 Reduced: €5.00
Hours Every day 9.00-12.00 / 14.00-17.00 Closed on Wednesdays From 26 January to 22 February 2017: Winter Break Closed on December 25th, January 1st and Easter Sunday

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